Venice, Italy
Venice, Italy is like nowhere else I’ve ever been. Built on more than 100 islands, the city is a maze of canals and bridges — over 400 of them. No cars, no buses. People and goods move by boat, or on foot. The entire place feels like a dream set in stone and water.
Arrival by Water — and in the Dark
We landed at the Venice airport at dusk, then made our way to the vaporetto dock to catch a water bus — which, despite its name, looked much more like a boat than a bus. The night was rainy and dark, and we worried about navigating the city’s twisting alleyways to our Airbnb.
Street signs are rare in Venice, and the address system doesn’t make much sense to outsiders. But thanks to the owner’s detailed directions and the CityMaps2Go app, we actually found our rental without much trouble. Tucked into a quiet alley, it was the perfect hideaway.
Exploring the Maze
For the next two days, we wandered Venice’s maze of narrow passages. Around almost every corner was a postcard-perfect canal scene — gondolas, stone bridges, boats quietly gliding beneath flower-covered balconies.
We visited highlights like:
- The Rialto Bridge, one of the oldest and most famous bridges in Venice
- Piazza San Marco, Venice’s grand central square
- The ornate St. Mark’s Basilica
- The historic Doge’s Palace, once home to the rulers of the Venetian Republic
But we also sought out quieter corners of the city. Away from the crowds, we stumbled into tiny churches, peaceful canals, and quiet neighborhoods where locals went about their daily lives. That balance — between the iconic and the hidden — was part of what made Venice so magical.
Travel Chaos: Venice to Matera, Italy
The day we left Venice turned out to be the most stressful of the entire trip.
We had tickets for a water bus back to the airport, and since they were valid at any stop, we walked to the far end of the Grand Canal for one last scenic ride. The journey was gorgeous — boats zipping past elaborate facades — and we snapped dozens of photos. But once we reached the airport, the real trouble started.
Surprise Airport Strike
Our flight was nowhere to be found — not on our phones, not on the departure board. Instead, the word Cancelled appeared over and over.
Turns out we had landed smack in the middle of a 24-hour airport workers’ strike. Our budget airline hadn’t notified us, and when Mary finally got through to them, they said they couldn’t get us to Bari for days. That would derail everything — we’d miss Matera and possibly our next flight out of Pisa.
Scrambling for a Plan B
I opened Google Maps and found a complicated route — a bus and 7-hour train ride — that could still get us to Bari if we moved fast.
Navigating the airport in Italian wasn’t easy, but we found the bus station, bought tickets, and got to the train station. There, we made our next mistake: waiting in line at the ticket counter without realizing we needed to take a number. Just as we figured that out, an agent must have seen the panic on our faces and called us over. We bought the train tickets — barely — and ran for the platform.
Miss that train, and we’d have a 16-hour wait.
Finding Our Seats — and Food
Once aboard, we had no clue how to find our seats. Car numbers and seat numbers were printed on the ticket, but they didn’t seem to match the layout. After asking multiple passengers, I found someone who spoke enough English to help: we were in the wrong railcar, three cars back. We hustled forward and found our seats.
But we were starving. We’d emptied our water bottles at airport security and never had time to eat. Fortunately, a conductor told us there was a snack car three cars up. A bottle of water and a snack never tasted so good.
Mary messaged our Airbnb host in Matera, explaining the delay. Incredibly, she offered to send her husband and son to pick us up at Bari station — an hour’s drive — and even better, her son spoke English. Travel crisis averted.
Matera, Italy
When we arrived late that night, tired and hungry, we were met with warm hospitality and a beautiful surprise.
A Cave to Call Home
Our Airbnb was part of the ancient Sassi di Matera, a neighborhood of stone cave dwellings carved into the hillside. Inside, we found a beautiful, thoughtfully decorated space, complete with homemade pastries, a bottle of champagne, and a full kitchen. After a long day, it felt like paradise.
That night, we made my favorite meal of the trip: gnocchi in orange vodka sauce with a local red wine. Simple, comforting, and absolutely delicious.
One of the Oldest Cities in the World
Matera isn’t well known — even many Italians haven’t heard of it — but it’s unforgettable. The city dates back nearly 9,000 years and is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world.
It looks like no other place we visited. Unlike the canals of Venice or the grandeur of Paris, Matera is a city of stone steps, caves, and ancient facades, all bathed in warm sunlight.
Highlights included:
- Exploring the winding alleys and quiet piazzas
- Visiting a preserved cave home museum
- Touring a 5-million-liter underground cistern, carved into limestone centuries ago
- Enjoying slow mornings with espresso and sunshine
It’s no wonder Matera has been the backdrop for nearly 30 films, including The Passion of the Christ, King David, and No Time to Die. Walking its streets truly feels like stepping back in time — but without the crowds.
Cinque Terre, Italy
Cinque Terre — “Five Lands” — is a string of five spectacular seaside villages along the Italian Riviera. Preserved as part of a national park, these villages are linked by steep cliffside hiking trails, a convenient train line, and ferries offering dramatic views from the sea. We tried all three methods of getting around — and each offered a different way to experience the magic of this region.
Five Villages, Five Vibes
Each of the five villages has its own character, but many consider Vernazza — where we stayed — to be the most scenic and photogenic. I’d be inclined to agree. Our rental had a fantastic balcony view of the harbor and sea, and the village itself was full of colorful buildings, winding alleys, and seaside charm.
Our first hike took us to Monterosso al Mare, the only village with a sizable sandy beach. Along the trail, we passed terraced hillsides with olive trees, basil, and grapevines — the steep farms clinging to the cliffs are as impressive as the views.
We also explored Corniglia, perched higher above the sea, as well as Manarola and Riomaggiore, both tucked into rocky coves with picturesque harbors and lively piazzas. Each stop had its own personality, and we were glad to have seen them all.
Hiking, Boats, and Breathtaking Views
The hiking in Cinque Terre is no joke — steep climbs, narrow trails, and plenty of stairs — but the views made every step worthwhile. And when our legs needed a break, we jumped on the ferry for a stunning ride along the coastline. Seeing the villages from the water, clinging to the cliffs like pastel-colored puzzle pieces, gave us a whole new appreciation for their beauty.
On our final night, we watched the sunset from the deck of the ferry, then took the train back to Vernazza to pack for our morning train to Pisa.
Cinque Terre was the perfect blend of activity and relaxation. After days of museums and city streets, the slower pace, sea air, and natural beauty were a refreshing change.
Pisa, Italy (Take Two)
We had passed through Pisa once already for an overnight stay — a chaotic, late-night arrival, a not-so-modern hotel, and zero sightseeing. But this time, we were back to see what the city is truly famous for.
More Than Just a Leaning Tower
Of course, the Leaning Tower of Pisa is the main attraction, and yes, it really does lean — more than you expect. But there’s much more to the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) than just the tower.
Right next to it is the Baptistery, a round marble building that is an architectural marvel. Its acoustics are so perfect that when staff demonstrate by singing a single note, the echo harmonizes with itself. Magical.
Then there’s the Camposanto, a walled cemetery with graves dating back to the 1300s. Many of the tomb markers include beautiful, haunting artwork — a quiet, reflective contrast to the busy square just outside.
Though Pisa is often treated as a quick photo stop, it turned out to be more rewarding than we expected. It gave us a moment of historical perspective — and reminded us that even famous tourist spots can hold deeper stories if you take the time to look.
Wrapping Up Italy
As I mentioned in Paris: The Start of Our European Vacation, this was our second trip to Italy — and once again, it did not disappoint. From the quiet canals of Venice to the ancient cave dwellings of Matera, the rugged coastline of Cinque Terre, and the architectural marvels of Pisa, each stop gave us a different side of the country.
Our first experience with Italy was part of a cruise, which I wrote about in European Family Vacation. While that trip gave us a great introduction, this one felt deeper — more connected, more challenging, and ultimately more rewarding. Italy is the kind of place that stays with you, and it’s absolutely worth visiting more than once, as you’ll see in the video below.
Next stop: Spain — where medieval towns, sunny beaches, and the vibrant streets of Barcelona were waiting.
Blog Table of Contents
- Paris: The Start of Our European Vacation
- Italy: From Canals to Clifftops
- Venice
- Matera
- Cinque Terre
- Pisa
- Spain: Sun, Castles, and Coastal Calm
- Tossa de Mar
- Barcelona