Spirit Island, cradled in Jasper National Park’s Maligne Lake, is among Canada’s most photographed scenes—and it’s no wonder. Turquoise water, glacier‑topped peaks, and dramatic alpine light create a postcard-perfect panorama. Most visitors arrive on tour boats, enjoying a narrated 1.5‑hour cruise and a brief 15‑minute stop at Spirit Island.
We did things differently.
Packing sea kayaks and backcountry permits, we opted for three nights of lakefront camping and hundreds of paddle strokes instead of the usual cruise.
Day 1: Early Starts and Windy Waters
At 6 a.m., we left Whistler’s Campground and were at the boat launch while most campers still snoozed—and before the lake turned into a wind machine. Most of the 13 km (7.8 mi) to Fisherman’s Bay passed in relative calm, framed by increasingly dramatic mountain views.
As we neared the bay, clouds rolled in fast. Wind shifted, whitecaps pummeled our kayaks, and each stroke felt like a battle—but we reached the camp before noon and landed one of the best lakefront tent sites.
The campsite set‑up? Rustic perfection: firepits, tarped cooking areas, and bear boxes to stash anything scented or edible.
After dinner, an opening in the clouds beckoned us. We paddled to Spirit Island, wind roaring so loudly that a tour boat staffer told us it was “the windiest day I’ve ever seen here.” Nothing like validation mid-battle.
Day 2: Kayaking to Coronet Creek Campground
The rain intensified overnight, and the wind howled like a wild beast. By morning, things had settled to a drizzly patter. We packed up and paddled south toward Coronet Creek, our next basecamp for two nights, at the south end of the lake.
On the way, we met a couple at an unofficial site, soaked and defeated. They’d tried to reach Coronet but turned back, beaten by the wind. It didn’t bode well, but we pushed on and arrived just as other campers were heading out—score! Almost empty campground, prime site. Win-win.
Coronet Creek Campground also has eight sites, albeit packed a little too close for full “wilderness escape” vibes. Still, it boasts a cozy communal fire ring right on the lakeshore, and the views from the dock? Stunning. The “toilets,” if you can call them that, are elevated plastic barrels with toilet seats. It’s not glamorous, but it gets the job done—sort of.
Days 2–3: Hiking, Wildlife, and Firelight Tales
So, what do you do with a day and a half in the middle of nowhere? A bit of everything.
I tried a solo hike up the Coronet Creek Trail, but fresh piles of grizzly poop (think: enormous, berry-packed landmines) changed my mind. Instead, I stuck to the lakeshore with my camera, photographing loons, ptarmigan, and deer so tame they practically posed.
Evenings meant crackling fires and camper conversations. Most folks were local Canadians—some seasoned backpackers, others just looking for peace and quiet far from busloads of selfie sticks. Apparently, international tourists prefer tour boats over bears. Who knew?
Final Day: Magic at Spirit Island
That early rise was worth it. With the lake glass-smooth and not a soul in sight, we paddled to Spirit Island in silence, arriving just as the sun spilled over the ridge, lighting up Valley of the Gods in golden morning glow.
Honestly? It may have been the most beautiful sight I’ve ever seen. Well, second most beautiful—my wife reads this blog.
With calm water and a tailwind behind us, our final 22 km (13 miles) back to the launch felt like a victory lap. We made it to the dock around 11 a.m., packed up the car, and still had time to drive all the way back to Bellingham, WA before sunset.
Final Thoughts
If you’ve ever looked at those glossy photos of Spirit Island and thought, “That looks incredible,”—you’re absolutely right. But consider ditching the boat tour. Paddle in. Camp out. Fight some waves. Freeze your toes off. Watch the sunrise. And give yourself more than 15 minutes to fall in love with one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
Because trust me—Spirit Island is worth every paddle stroke.
Canoe & Kayak Rentals
- Banff Jasper Collection’s Curly Phillips Boathouse rents canoes, kayaks, tandems, and pedal boats. Book online to guarantee your gear (hourly and overnight options available) adventuresofblondie.com+4Banff Jasper Collection+4Banff Jasper Collection+4.
- Wild Current Outfitters offers canoe rentals with paddles, PFDs, throw bags, bailers, and delivery options; multi‑day discounts available starting around CA $135/day Wild Current Outfitters Canoe Tours+1Wild Current Outfitters Canoe Tours+1.
- Pure Outdoors also provides multi-day rentals and gear packages including freighter canoes; they can deliver directly to Maligne Lake Reddit+15pureoutdoors.ca+15adventuresofblondie.com+15.
Maps & Planning
- Official Parks Canada Maligne Lake map shows lakeshore, campgrounds, trails, and key waypoints like Coronet Creek, Spirit Island, and Fisherman’s Bay Reddit.
- Parks Canada itinerary guide includes suggested hiking routes, fishing info (permit required), and details on accessing the lake and backcountry zones Parks Canada.
Pro tip: Download offline map data or print a map before you go—there’s virtually no cell service at the lake Wild Current Outfitters Canoe ToursParks Canada.
Final Takeaways
- Book early—Parks Canada backcountry reservations for Maligne Lake camping open in late January and often sell out within hours adventuresofblondie.com.
- Start paddling early—Get on the lake before the 9 a.m. tour boats launch; water is calmest and wildlife is most active then Wild Current Outfitters Canoe Tours.
- Stick close to shore, especially on windy days—Maligne Lake is glacially cold and paddling in the open can be hazardous Wild Current Outfitters Canoe ToursReddit.
- Respect the land and local customs: Spirit Island is culturally significant; avoid landing or walking on it Wild Current Outfitters Canoe Tours.